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| Oshakati |
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Introduction & planning tips Oshakati lies at the centre of an area from which approximately half of Namibia's population originates, and is in many ways, Namibia's 'second capital'. Many travellers particularly appreciate the feeling of Africa which is immediately visible in the area: traditional homesteads, crowds of friendly people, herds of domestic animals, makalani palms and crops planted in small pans known as oshanas. Oshakati and the area and many small towns which surround it are rich in cultural and historical interest, but have not been marketed optimally, so there is room for fresh appeal on itineraries to be found in the area. A stay of two or three nights is recommended, with day and half-day trips to the many surrounding attractions.
Consultants' map ![]() Consultants' folder Click on the title to show or hide the information. A minimum of two nights is recommended, to allow for day and half-day trips.
Oshakati is a fully fledged town with banking facilities, a wide range of
stores, refuelling and repair facilities. There are a number of lodges and hotels in and around Oshakati.
Itinerary Plan for at least two nights, and one full day to do day trips to sites of cultural and historic interest. Not a wildlife destination The area surrounding Oshakati is used for rural communal agriculture, and travellers should not expect to see wildlife. Travellers should concentrate on culture and history. Driving Drive extremely cautiously, reduce speed and watch the verges of the roads. Children and animals cross the road freely. Watch the car ahead and keep an ample following distance, as the driver may need to apply brakes rapidly. Malaria Oshakati falls in the malaria area. Travellers should read the advice on malaria, here>> Local guides, Cuca shops and open markets Visits to Cuca shops and open markets should be accompanied by an experienced local guide. Petty crime There is a small amount of petty crime in the area. Travellers should leave conspicuously valuable items in the hotel and should not carry large amounts of money. Cash Travellers should carry Namibian currency, as most of the smaller establishments and traders on open markets do not have electronic banking facilities, Sensitivity Slaughtering of animals takes place at open markets, and meat is hung to be sold on the same day. This may casue problems with sensitive travellers. * Oshakati * Ondangwa * Elim * Tsandi * Ombalantu Baobab Tree * Olukonda National Monument * Olukonda National Monument * Ongulumbashe Monument * Cuca shops The landscape surrounding Oshakati is flat. Small, shallow pans known as oshanas are seen everywhere. The most common feature of the skyline is the makalani palm, but there are many baobabs as well. The area is used mainly for rural communal farming, so there are large numbers of domestic animals. Many traditional homesteads can be seen from along the road and, during and after the rainy season, crops can be seen growing in the oshanas.
There are three monuments of particular note: * The Ongulumbashe Monument * The Ombalantu Baobab Tree and * Olukonda National Monument. Find more details under surrounding attractions. There are thousands of Cuca shops to be seen in the area. These are small stores that sell basic goods and serve as the bar and entertainment areas for the surrounding homesteads. Cuca stores are all imaginatively named and numbered. For instance, the traveller can expect to see 'Mr Bean Bar', 'Club Hotfire' and 'We Can Live Together'. Many are numbered to give the idea that the owner is prosperous enough to have other Cuca shops, although this may not be the case. It is possible to tour the Cuca shops and enjoy the hospitality, however travellers should be advised to do so accompanied by a local guide, especially if they intend to enjoy the local beer.The word 'Cuca' comes from the name of a beer produced in Angola during Portuguese colonial times in that country.
There are a number of open markets around the area, some larger and some smaller. The markets sell basic necessities for the residents in the surrounding areas. Most markets have an open-air butchery, where animals are slaughtered and the meat is hung to be sold on the same day. Sensitive travellers should be warned away from these markets. Travellers should visit these markets accompanied by experienced guides. At larger markets, petty crime may be a concern, so travellers should avoid displays of conspicuous wealth. These markets are normally concerned with the needs of the residents, and so will not have large amounts of craft on sale. There are a number of markets which specialise in craft.
Traditional homesteads can be seen around Oshakati, and are characterised by their wood and thatched huts. The traditional homestead contains separate enclosures for men, male children and women, girls and young children. Within the homestead there will be an enclosure for livestock, storage areas for grain, cooking areas and places to meet. The homestead will be constructed near an oshana where millet can be planted to take advantage of the annual flooding. Travellers must be advised that homesteads are private dwellings and unannounced visits will strain hospitality. A traditional homestead can be visited at the Okashana Traditional Homestead a short distance north of Omuthiya on the B1 heading north from the King Nehale Gate to Etosha. Note: this should not be confused with the Okashana settlement which is south of Omuthiya. The makalani palm, also known as the real fan palm or the vegetable ivory palm, can be seen all over the north. The nuts are used to carve items of jewellery, the oil from the nut is used to make oil for cooking, and although prohibited, the buds are used for brewing beer and brandy.
African baobab trees grow singly and can be seen in places around Oshakati. They are of particular interest for their huge size and age. In some places, parts of the baobabs' trunks have been hollowed out to make rooms and, in one instance, even a toilet. The best known baobab in the Oshakati vicinity is the Ombalantu Baobab which is a national monument. Find details in "surrounding attractions".
The oshanas are shallow pans that are vital to life in the north. They are dry for much of the year, but are filled by rain in the area, as well as water flowing into Namibia after rains fall in the Cuvelai catchment area in Angola. Crops are planted in the Oshana prior to and during the rainy season. When the oshanas are full, tilapia fish are harvested from them.
Ondangwa is a small town just south of Oshakati, but an important business and administrative centre. Attractions near Ondangwa include King Shikongo's Grave, British war graves, the Ondangwa open market and an arts and crafts centre. Omandongo is the site where the Finnish missionaries first established a mission in July 1870. There is also a monument at Omulonga which commemorates the first baptism of six men of the Owambo peoples. The six men were baptised by missionary Tobias Reijonen on 6 January 1883.
At Tsandi are the King Shikongo's Grave, Sir Howard's Baobab, German war graves, King Taapopi's residence and the Ongulumbashe Monument. Note: Visitors who wish to visit the Omgulumbashe Monument in Tsandi should make arrangements with the SWAPO party office in Uutapi. At Elim, there are monuments for the IIkwambi Kings and King Nuuyoma's Grave.
Uutapi is the site of the Ombalantu Baobab. Note: Visitors who wish to visit the Omgulumbashe Monument in Tsandi should make arrangements with the SWAPO party office in Uutapi. The Ongulumbashe Monument marks the begining of the armed liberation struggle on 26 August 1966. Access is controled by the SWAPO party office, in Uutapi, north of Tsandi, where the Ombalantu Baobab is located. Arrangements to visit the monument should be made in advance.
The Ombalantu Baobab at Uutapi is believed to be more than 1,000 years old. Its trunk has a diameter of just over 8 meters. During early tribal conflicts, a hide-out was hollowed out in the trunk of the tree, with an entrance 5 m above the ground. During South Africa's occupation of the country, a military base was constructed around the tree. An entrance was dug at ground level, and the tree was used as a post office. Following independence, a kindergarten was constructed around the tree. It was declared a national monument in 2002.
In June 1871, Finnish missionaries established a mission at Olukonda. The mission was first run by Karl Emanuel Jurvelin, followed by Gustav Mauritz Skoglund. In 1880, the mission was taken over by Reverend Martti Rautanen, who was also known as 'Nakambala', 'he who carries the tobacco basket'. In 1889, he erected the first church in northern Namibia, which is now known as the Nakambala Church. The church, mission house and adjoining graveyard are national monuments. A museum on the site has displays of the culture and history of the Oshiwambo peoples, as well as displays on the day-to-day life of the Finnish missionaries.
Oshakati can be visited in a small 2X4 sedan. If travelling off the highway, a 4X4 is recommended, especially in the rainy season.
Beware of cattle, goats, donkeys, chicken and especially
children on roads through far northern Namibia. These often wonder
along or across roads, even main tar roads such as the B1 and C46.
Reduce speed and be prepared to hit the breaks at any moment. Pay attention to vehicles ahead as well, and try to maintain ample stopping distance. Etosha National Park (King Nehale Gate) King Nehale Gate to Oshakati is approx. 155 km * From the King Nehale Gate drive on the D3646 to the B1 turn off (approx. 15 km) * Turn left into the B1 and follow it via Ondangwa to Oshakati (approx. 140 km) The D3646 is gravel road. The B1 is tar road. Note: Clients need to arrive at King Nehale Gate at least 3 hours before sunset, as the closest rest camp is Namutoni, which is a minimum 2 hours drive from King Nehale Gate. Etosha National Park (Von Lindequist Gate) Von Lindequist Gate to Oshakati is approx. 234 km * From the gate follow the C38 to the B1 turn off (approx. 25 km) * Turn left into the B1 and follow it via Ondangwa to Oshakati (approx. 209 km) The entire route is tar road. Opuwo Opuwo to Oshakati is approx. 295 km * From Opuwo drive east on the C41 to the C35 turn off (approx. 56 km) * Turn left into the C35 and continue to the C46 turn off (approx. 85 km) * Turn right into the C46 and follow it to Oshakati (approx. 154 km) The entire route is tar road. Note: It is possible to drive from Opuwo to Oshakati on the C41, but before doing so enquire about the condition of the C41 past the C35 turn off. We strongly advise not to take the C41 route during rainy season. Tsumeb Tsumeb to Oshakati is approx. 282 km * From Tsumeb drive north on the B1 to Oskakati (approx. 282 km) The entire route is tar road. Ruacana Ruacana to Oshakati is approx. 163 km * From Ruacana drive north on the D3618 to the C46 turn off (approx. 5 km) * Turn right into the C46 and drive to Oshakati (approx. 158) The C46 is tar road. The D3618 is gravel road. Oshakati, at the centre of an area from which approximately half of
Namibia's population originates, is in many ways, Namibia's 'second
capital'. Many travellers particularly appreciate the feeling of Africa
which is immediately visible in the area: traditional homesteads,
crowds of friendly people, herds of domestic animals, makalani palms
and crops planted in small pans known as oshanas.
Oshakati, at the centre of an area from which approximately half of
Namibia's population originates, is in many ways, Namibia's 'second
capital'. Many travellers particularly appreciate the feeling of Africa
which is immediately visible in the area: traditional homesteads,
crowds of friendly people, herds of domestic animals, makalani palms
and crops planted in small pans known as oshanas. Oshakati and the area and many small towns which surround it are rich in cultural and historical interest: traditional homesteads, the scenes of battles, the graves of king, the places where Christianity was first introduced to the peoples of Owambo, and even a baobab that was hollowed out and used first as a hide-out in times of war, and then as a post-office. The word ‘Oshakati’ means 'that which is in-between'.
Oshakati is hot during the summer, with temperatures ranging between approximately 18 C at night and 36 C during the day. Rain can be expected from October to April. Winters are warm during the day and very cold at night.
Although the Makalani Palm is particularly common to central-northern
Namibia, it is found as far afield as Damaraland, on small islands in
the Okavango Delta and a pair of the palms have even been noted in the
Swakop River. When crossing the veterinary border at Oshivelo, travellers enter a different world: one of homesteads dotted with traditional huts, open markets and herds of goats. One of the most visible symbols of this world is the fan-like leaves of the makalani palm, Hyphaene petersiana, also known locally as the omulunga, the epokola and the mbare. It is also known as the vegetable ivory palm and the real fan palm. The makalani palm is usually a single-stemmed palm, but the stem may occasionally split into multiple stems. It usually grows to a height of between three and eight meters, but may grow as tall as twenty meters. The trunk bulges towards the center, is gray brown and has scars where each year's leaves fall off. At the top of the trunk, branches, or petioles, radiate out from the trunk, growing to a length of one meter. The palm fans protect themselves with long black thorns. The leaves are feather-shaped. The makalani is an evergreen plant, keeping its leaves throughout the year. The leaves are bright green when young, but turn yellow to brown as they age. Male and female flowers develop on separate plants. The makalani flowers from September to April, but the blooms grow most abundantly in September to October. The female flowers grow in long, branched sprays. The makalani palm is commonly found in riverbeds and in the oshanas, the shallow pans, of the northern regions of Namibia. It is also found growing in groups on small islands in the Okavango Delta of Botswana. These areas are sandy on top with salty soil and a claylike consistency below the surface, ideal conditions for the makalani nut to germinate. The makalani nut normally begins to develop from December to May. The fruit of the tree takes the form of a large nut, between 40 mm and 60mm in diameter. The nuts take two years to mature on the tree, two years to fall and another two years to germinate. As a result, if not harvested, the nuts can be found all year round. The makalani nut is known to germinate when the hard outer covering is damaged, either by fire or by lying in water, hence the long period from the time it falls till the time it actually germinates. The palm develops a long taproot, below the surface to reach the water below, as standing water occurs only during the rainy seasons, and as rains are variable. This long taproot makes it difficult to grow the tree in nurseries, and it also makes it difficult to transplant the tree. The trees drop their nuts copiously, giving rise to dense growths of makalani scrub at the base of taller older trees. The young plants will take about forty years to germinate and will only begin to produce seeds at the age of about fifty. The makalani palm is one of the most useful and best-used trees in Namibia. Typically, every traveller will be offered or will have the chance to buy a makalani nut. The hard wooden covering of the nut is carved away to show the white center of the makalani, forming a picture in relief. This is known as vegetable ivory. The young leaves of the palm are torn into strips which are used to weave baskets. The dark brown areas of the weave are obtained by using leaves that are dyed by boiling for a day with the bark of the bird plum tree, Birchemia discolor. The pulp of the makalani nut can be eaten raw, once the hard hull is removed. Beer is made by removing the bud of the palm fan and collecting the sap. If the fermentation process takes longer, a strong, brandylike drink, ombike, can be produced. However this kills the palm and so is forbidden. In spite of the fact that it is illegal, the process continues. The oil from the makalani nut is used to make oil for cooking. The leaves can be used as parts of roofs on traditional huts, and the wood and dried fans can be used in fencing. The makalani palms are also valued for their shade. As the makalani palm draws on saline water from below the surface of the ground, it does not need water that is used for other crops. Elephants are known to eat makalani nuts, and the remnants of nuts that pass through their digestive systems grow along the paths used by elephants. Often an elephant trail can be identified by a trail of makalani trees along a river. The palm fans of the makalani are extremely tough and have thorns, so they are not eaten by animals, except when there is an extreme drought. The makalani is also used by the palm swift, which builds a vertical nest below the leaves, and attaches its eggs to the tree with glue-like saliva. Every year, water flows into the oshanas, flat pans, of central
northern Namibia. The best known oshana, and the largest, is Etosha
Pan. The water that flows into the oshanas brings life to the north,
but if the water flow is to strong, it can also bring disaster. The water that flows into the oshanas, in a process known as the efundja, is vital to life in the north. Every year, prior to the inflow, farmers plant mahango seeds in the oshanas, a type of millet. The water irrigates the crops which are then harvested and stored for consumption through the rest of the year. The waters also bring with them tilapia, a species of fish that supplements diets in the north. However if the flow of waters is too great homesteads, towns and crops are submerged, and roads and bridges are washed away. The standing water after the efundja also creates the risk of waterborne diseases and provide excellent breeding places for mosquitoes, which spread malaria. The waters that flow into the oshanas come from rain in the area, but are also fed by rainwater that washes down from the Cuvelai catchment area in Angola. Although there may be very little rain in Namibia, it is still possible for the oshanas to flood if rainfall is strong enough in the Cuvelai catchment area in Angola. The Cuvelai catchment area lies in the northern part of the Cuvelai Basin, also known as the Ovambo Basin. The basin is a system of oshanas and rivers that lies on a long slope that begins in Angola and ends in Namibia. The Cuvelai Basin has its origins hundreds of millions of years ago, when the area was a part of the supercontinent Gondwana. At that stage the area was characterised by very high mountains. The last of these mountains can still be seen around Otavi. About 300 million years ago, Gondwana went through an ice age. Massive glaciers formed on the mountains and these made their way down the mountains into the area which is now northern Namibia, including Etosha. The movement of these glaciers carved a huge basin. The time of the glaciers lasted about 20 million years, after which the continent warmed, and a dry desert was formed, the Gondwana Desert. This period lasted about 100 million years, during which, during which dunes formed and gradually solidified, forming sandstone in the formation that is now known as the Etjo Sandstone Formation. Gondwana began to split into two separate land masses, now Africa and South America, about 130 million years ago. While this was happening, the earth's crust in the vicinity of the Cuvelai Basin was forced upwards. This created the slope of the basin. About 3 million years ago, rivers flowing downwards formed a great lake at the base of the mountains. These rivers also eroded the mountains carried debris downwards into the basin, forming a layer of soil approximately 200 meters deep. The waters drained out of the basin, into the Hoanib River, which ran into the Atlantic. The water in the lake was extremely salty and, as a result of evaporation and drainage, layers of salt were left behind as the water dried up. The drainage of the water, out of the lake, was also speeded up about 35,000 years ago when movement of the tectonic plate increased the gradient of the Kunene River. Today, the oshanas and the salt-encrusted Etosha Pan are the only remnants of the mountains. The water that flows into the oshanas evaporates, and seeps through the layer of salt below the surface of the soil. The water below the surface is too salty to provide large amounts of water needed by the developing population of the north. A system of canals, water pipelines and storage dams is used to capture and distribute water that enters the area, or to bring water in. On 26 August every year, Namibians have a public holiday, Heroes Day,
to commemorate the beginning of the armed liberation struggle on 26
August 1966 at Omugulu-gOmbashe, also known as Ongulumbashe, as well as
those who gave their lives to the liberation struggle. Subsequent to the defeat of the Germans in the territory during World War 1 in 1915, the League of Nations gave the Union of South Africa a mandate to administer the territory. In 1946, after World War 2, the League of Nations was replaced by the United Nations. However South Africa refused to cede its mandate to the United Nations and continued to occupy the territory. During the 1950s, the movement to decolonize Africa was spreading across the continent, aided by countries that had already attained their independence. These countries provided aid to liberation movements and also gave support to the liberation movement through their positions and groupings in the UN. Although Namibia has a history of resistance, the tide of liberation gained renewed momentum in Namibia, and a number of organisations were established with the goal of independence for Namibia. However South Africa refused to budge. On a local level, the municipal authorities in Windhoek planned to move the residents of the 'Old Location' to a new township known as 'Katutura' on the north-western edges of the town. The inhabitants of the Old Location protested against this however they were ignored. On 10 December 1959, matters came to a head during a demonstration, when 10 residents of the Old Location were killed by the police. In the wake of the Old Location Massacre, a significant number of Namibians went into exile or chose to go into exile. At this time, the liberation struggle was political, with representations being made to the UN, alongside lobbying for independence to other international and humanitarian organisations. At the time, two organisations stood at the forefront of the political liberation struggle: the South West Africa National Union (SWANU) and the Owamboland People's Organisation (OPO). These organisations formed an alliance, however in 1960, the OPO broke from SWANU and reconstituted itself as the South West Africa People's Organisation (SWAPO) with future president Sam Nujoma at its head. Although SWAPO was focused on petitioning the UN, it began establishing a military wing, the South West Africa Liberation Army (SWALA). Members of SWALA went on to receive training in Algeria, Tanzania, Ghana, Egypt and China. In March 1965, a group of SWALA members moved through the Caprivi into central Northern Namibia, where they split up to begin political mobilization of the population. In 1966, SWALA was renamed the Namibian People's Liberation Army (NAPLA). In March of that year, a training camp was established in Ontamanzi, however this was later shifted to Uuudhija. In June of 1966, a group of NAPLA forces moved to Omugulu-gOmbashe, north-west of Tsandi in western parts of Owamboland. There they began to build trenches and other defensive positions. However the activity had not escaped the notice of the South African police who attacked om 26 August 1966. During the course of this battle, a number of combatants were shot, and others were wounded. Overwhelmed, the NAPLA forces retreated. The battle at Omugulu-gOmbashe was the first of the liberation struggle. NAPLA was subsequently renamed the People's Liberation Army of Namibia. The armed liberation struggle lasted until Namibia obtained its independence on 21 March 1990. The other event in the liberation struggle which is commemorated is Cassinga Day, when South African troops attacked the refugee settlement of Cassinga. A memorial marks the site of the battle. On the same day, the Herero people mark Red Flag Day in Okahandja, to commemorate the repatriation and reburial of the remains of Chief Samuel Maharero in 1923, as well as the Herero Genocide. |
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