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Walvis Bay

Introduction & planning tips

Underrated as a tourist destination, Walvis Bay has a more modern appearance than its counterpart Swakopmund. The very well-developed set of activities in the town includes boat trips and birdwatching on the lagoon which is the centrepiece of the town’s tourism offering, trips to Sandwich Harbour and various adventure activities at Dune 7 and the dunes of Langstrand. In fact, many of the activities offered in Swakopmund require a trip to Walvis Bay in the first place. In light of this and the development of Walvis Bay’s tourism sector, this town is rapidly becoming a very good alternative destination to Swakopmund. Species of particular note include Damara terns, Heaviside dolphins, Cape fur seals and huge numbers of flamingos and pelicans.

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Planning information

A minimum stay of one full day and two nights is recommended in order to give the traveller at least one morning for activities and an afternoon free to relax or select from additional activities.

Two full days and three nights is recommended if the traveller wishes to visit Sandwich Harbour. Cape Cross may be incorporated on the outward or inward journey to or from Walvis Bay.

Walvis Bay is a full-fledged, developed town with modern facilities:
* Numerious petrol stations and garages
* Several banks and ATM's
* Shopping centres of various sizes
* Restaurants, coffee shops and bars
* Hospital
* Airport

Branch with Bureau de Change
164A Rikumbi Kandanga Road
Mon - Fri: 08h30 - 15h30
Sat: 08h30 - 12h00
Hours may vary.

Itinerary
The town can be incorporated as the point visited immediately after arrival in Windhoek or just prior to return to Windhoek. However, it can also be scheduled towards the middle of an itinerary, i.e. Sossusvlei, Walvis Bay, Twyfelfontein, Etosha or Kaokoland, or the reverse.

Namibians on Holiday
During December and over the Easter period, Walvis Bay becomes the playground of Namibians and visiting South Africans who come for the fishing in particular. Accommodation is hard to find during these periods and although the town is relatively small, it becomes crowded. Prices usually increase just prior to these periods.

Timing of visit
The best time to visit is during the high season. At other times of the year, the high number of Namibians and South Africans may cause difficulties in finding accommodation.

Clothing & sun
Walvis Bay is generally damp in the morning and sunny from mid morning onwards. Mist may rise again in the late afternoon. Travellers should carry clothing accordingly. Even if it does look like a hot sunny day, take a jersey or jacket along. For dune activities, a hat, sunscreen, good shoes and socks are a firm recommendation, as is large amounts of sunscreen. Although it may appear cool and misty, sunburn can still be a serious problem.

Closed on Sunday
Many dining establishments and similar facilities are closed on Sundays. If the itinerary visits Walvis Bay on a Sunday, it is advisable to pre-book an activity.

Walvis Bay lies at the heart of a very ecologically sensitive area. Travellers should take care not to disturb birds or nature, should not litter, remove anything, or make fires unless permitted. Rules and guidelines will be posted at the entrance to ecologically sensitive areas.

* Boat trips on the lagoon
* Trips to Sandwich Harbour
* Birdwatching on the wetlands
* Trips into the dunes
* Visits to Dune 7
* Fishing

A number of marine mammal species have been observed in the vicinity of Walvis Bay. These include a small colony of Cape fur seals, dusky, bottlenosed and heaviside dolphins. Sightings of humpback whales have been reported.

Travel details

Walvis Bay can be reached in a 2X4 sedan on most of the major routes, however during periods of rain, a 4X4 should be used when not travelling on the highway from Windhoek via Okahandja, Karibib & Usakos. In this regard, note that although it does not often rain in Walvis Bay, the rivers may be flowing or muddied from rain further inland.

* Swakopmund
* Solitaire
* Sesriem & Sossusvlei
* Okahandja
* Omaruru
* Otjiwarongo
* Palmwag Concession
* Twyfelfontein
* Uis
* Waterberg
* Windhoek

Swakopmund
Swakopmund to Walvis Bay is approx. 30 km
* From Swakopmund drive south on the B2 to Walvis Bay (approx. 30 km)
The entire route is on tar road.

Sesriem
Sesriem to Walvis Bay is approx. 313 km
* From Sesriem take the D826 to the C19 turn off (approx. 11 km)
* Turn left into the C19 and drive to Solitaire (approx. 72 km)
* From Solitaire drive north on the C14 to Walvis Bay (approx. 230 km)
The entire route is on gravel road.
En-route attractions: Gaub & Kuiseb Canyon

Omaruru
Omaruru to Walvis Bay is approx. 264 km
* From Omaruru drive south on the C33 to Karabib (approx. 59 km)
* From Karabib drive west on the B2 to Swakopmund (approx. 175 km)
* From Swakopmund drive south on the B2 to Walvis Bay (approx. 30 km)
The entire route is on tar road.
En-route attractions: Martin Luther steam engine
Small detour attractions: Spitzkoppe & Regimental Badges

Palmwag Concession via Skeleton Coast Park
Palmwag Concession via Skeleton Coast Park to Walvis Bay is approx. 489 km
* From Palmwag Concession drive south on the C43 to the C39 turn off (approx. 39 km)
* Turn right into the C39 to the C34 turn off (approx. 93 km)
* Turn left into the C34 and drive to Swakopmund (approx. 327 km)
* From Swakopmund drive south on the B2 to Walvis Bay (approx. 30 km)
The B2 is tar road. The rest of the route is gravel road
En-route attractions: Skeleton Coast Park and Cape Cross.

Twyfelfontein via Uis
Twyfelfontein via Uis to Walvis Bay is approx. 354 km
* Drive north on the D3214 to the D2612 turn off (approx. 10 km)
* Turn right into the D2612 and continue to the C35 turn off (approx. 62 km)
* Turn right into the C35 and follow it via Uis to the C34 turn off (approx. 174 km)
* Drive south on the C34 to Henties Bay (approx. 6 km)
* From Henties drive south on the C34 to Swakopmund (approx. 72 km)
* From Swakopmund drive south on the B2 to Walvis Bay (approx. 30 km)
The B2 is tar road. The rest of the route is gravel road
Detour attraction: Cape Cross

Waterberg Plateau Park
Waterberg Plateau Park to Walvis Bay is approx. 492 km
* From Waterberg take the D2512 and drive to the C22 turn off (approx. 24 km)
* Turn right into the C22 and drive to the B1 turn off (approx. 41 km)
* Turn right into the B1 and drive north to Otjiwarongo (approx. 28 km)
* From Otjiwarongo take the C33 and drive to Omaruru (approx. 135 km)
* From Omaruru drive south on the C33 to Karabib (approx. 59 km)
* From Karabib drive west on the B2 to Swakopmund (approx. 175 km)
* From Swakopmund drive south on the B2 to Walvis Bay (approx. 30 km)
The D2512 is gravel road. The rest of the route is on tar road.
En-route attractions: Martin Luther steam engine
Small detour attractions: Spitzkoppe & Regimental Badges

Windhoek via Okahandja, Karabis & Usakos
Windhoek via Okahandja, Karabis & Usakos to Walvis Bay is approx. 383 km
* From Windhoek drive north on the B1 to Okahandja (approx. 66 km)
* From Okahandja drive west on the B2 to Karabib (approx. 112 km)
* From Karabib continue on the B2 to Usakos (approx. 32 km)
* From Usakos continue west on the B2 to Swakopmund (approx. 143 km)
* From Swakopmund drive south on the B2 to Walvis Bay (approx. 30 km)
The entire route is on tar road.
En-route attractions: Martin Luther steam engine
Small detour attractions: Spitzkoppe & Regimental Badges

Walvis Bay Airport (FYWB)
South: 22 degrees 59’ 00”
East: 14 degrees 39’ 00"
Length: 2.133 meters
Width: 30 meters
Elevation: 312 feet
Direction: 09/27
Surface: Tar
Walvis Bay Tower RF: 122.5 MHz
Cautions/Warning: Sea fog prevalent in mornings and afternoon. Large concentrations of birds in harbour/lagoon area and along coast.

Information on Walvis Bay Airport provided by Red Sky Ventures

Accomms index

Activity operators

To do: Walvis Bay

To do: Walvis Bay area

Dune 7, approximately 10 km east of Walvis Bay, is the highest dune in the coastal dune belt. Picnic facilities are available, and activities such as sand skiing, sand boarding and quad biking take place at the location.

Note: under NO circumstances should travellers attempt to drive to Sandwich Harbour. The trip should only be done with an experienced local operator.

Sandwich Harbour, a lagoon formed between the dunes of the Namib Desert and the Atlantic Shore, is a single day’s activity, departing from Walvis Bay. Sandwich Harbour falls within the boundaries of the Namib Naukluft Park, but gives the traveller a glimpse of an ecosystem that combines the Namib sand sea and the forces of the Atlantic Ocean. The combination of the two has produced an environment that is classified as a globally important wetland. The area will be of particular interest to birdwatchers, but the combination of the sea meeting the dunes, the diversity of the wildlife, an interesting history that awakens the imagination and the sense of wild isolation makes this a very rewarding popular activity for travellers in the vicinity of Walvis Bay.

The area in the vicinity of Walvis Bay is well known for excellent surf angling, particularly Paaltjies, just south of the Walvis Bay salt works. Commonly caught species include cob, galjoen, steenbras and blacktail. Sharks are often landed as well. A number of regulations pertain to fishing in the area and a fishing permit is required. Travellers wishing to fish should be advised to do so on an activity tour, easily booked with coastal activity operators.

The uplift of air from the coast over the face of the dunes provides fair conditions for power kites. Travellers wishing to use power kites should be warned of steep drop-offs on the sides of dunes facing away from the coast as they may be pulled over the edge causing injury. Parafoil flights and parafoil flight training are also offered, although the elevation offered by the dunes is not particularly high.

Dune walks are a popular activity. The best times for dune walks are from sunrise until approximately 10h00 in the morning and in the late afternoon. Travellers should not stray too far, should exercise caution concerning the environment and should not stray into areas demarcated for quad biking and dune driving.

A number of activity operators offer dune driving in the dunes between Walvis Bay and Swakopmund.

Note:
On no account should the traveller be allowed to even consider driving offroad in a rental vehicle. Dune driving is a difficult skill to master, can cause serious accidents and is a threat to the sensitive environment, particularly the breeding ground of the endangered Damara tern which nests in the plain between the dunes and the upper tide line.

Dune driving should only be done on a supervised activity excursion. In an effort to control environmental damage, a permit is required. Drivers found without this permit will have to pay a minimum fine of N$ 300.

Quad biking on the dunes between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay is a particularly popular activity. There are a number of activity operators who offer the opportunity. However, travellers should be cautioned that this is a dangerous activity, if practiced in an irresponsible manner, and that it has caused a number of injuries. Travellers must fully familiarise themselves with the contents of indemnity and liability waiver forms which they will be asked to sign. Additionally, quad biking is only allowed in demarcated areas due to environmental sensitivity and conservation concerns. Travellers should proceed cautiously and carefully with due regard for their safety, the environment and the stipulations of the activity operator.

Note: operators should always stipulate that an activity such as quad biking is solely at the discretion of the traveller, and take contractual precautions to limit liability in the event of accidents.

Cape Cross is approximately 155 km north of Walvis Bay, beyond the town of Henties Bay, and so requires a full day’s excursion, if not incorporated on the route to or from Walvis Bay. The excursion can be done as a self drive. Travellers see one of the points at which Portuguese explorer Diogo Cao landed on Namibia’s coastline. A replica cross marks the site at which Diogo Cao erected a cross to mark his landing. Another replica cross, placed erroneously by the colonial German government is also located on the site as well. The original cross is kept in a museum in Kiel in Germany. Cape Cross is also the location of giant colony of Cape fur seals.

The Welwitschia Drive is a half-day, self-drive circuit of the Namib Naukluft Park in the vicinity of Swakopmund that gives travellers a look at the gravel plains of the Namib, the moon landscape, the Welwitschia mirabilis and a few sites of historical interest. A permit to enter the Namib Naukluft Park is required.

The gravel plains of the Namib lie north-east of Walvis Bay. On these gravel plains, the traveller can do the Welwitschia Plains Drive as a self drive, visit the Badges Monument, do a short tour of geological interest to the Rossing Uranium Mine. A cable slide from Rossing Mountain offers an exhilarating experience for the adventurous. There is also a Golf course located in the bed of the Swakopmund River.

Marketing descriptions

Background for clients & guides

Although Walvis Bay was likely first visited by Diogo Cao around 1485, it was visited by Diogo Cao in 1487, and given the name ‘Golfo de Santa Maria da Conceicae’ as his visit coincided with what was believed to be the date of Mary’s conception.

In the 16th century sailors named the area ‘Bahia des Balea’, the ‘bay of whales’, and it has since been know as Walwich Bay, Walvisch Bay, Walvisch Bucht and, most recently, Walvis Bay, all of which mean ‘bay of whales’.

The weather is temperate, but highly variable in the course of a day. The cold weather system of the Benguela current which flows off Namibia’s coast carries moisture into the desert. This combines with the warm air of the Namib to produce mist and fog, sometimes as far as 140 km inland. However at times, the well known ‘East Wind’ blows in from the desert producing hot, clear days. Mornings are often misty. The mist usually clears later in the morning, and often reappears in the evenings. Travellers should be prepared for a variety of weathers.

Although Walvis Bay was likely first noted by Diogo Cao around 1485, it was officially visited by Bartholomeu Diaz in 1487, and given the name ‘Golfo de Santa Maria da Conceicae’ as his visit coincided with what was believed to be the date of Mary’s conception.

In the 16th century sailors named the area ‘Bahia des Balea’, the ‘bay of whales’, and it has since been know as Walwich Bay, Walvisch Bay, Walvisch Bucht and, most recently, Walvis Bay, all of which mean ‘bay of whales’.

Conception Bay is currently located some distance south of Sandwich Harbour.

The next major visits took place in the 1600s, when the Dutch East India Company, which was active at the Cape of Good Hope, explored the coastline in search of suitable harbours and potential trading posts. In 1670, the Grundel explored as far north as Angra Pequena (Lüderitz) and Sandwich Harbour. In 1677, the Bode explored up to the Kuiseb Mouth, just south of Walvis Bay, but skirmished with the Namas, and retreated.

Everything remained quiet until, in 1793, the area was visited by the Dutch ship Meermin, which proclaimed which proclaimed sovereignty over Angra Pequena, Halifax Island and Walvis Bay. During this expedition the brothers Dirk and Sebastiaan van Reenen, and one Pieter Pienaar, made an exploratory foray into the interior along the Swakop River Valley.

In 1795 the British vessel ‘Star’ commanded by Captain Alexander, proclaimed possession of potential harbour sites to 15 degrees south for the British Crown. This stretched up to what is currently the harbour town Namibe in Angola. The Portuguese had proclaimed possession in 1485, which created a problem. This was ironed out at the Vienna Congress with a treaty dated 22 January 1815 and amended in July 1817. In terms of this treaty, Britain gave up claim to all areas north of 18 degrees. This point is currently marked as Cape Fria in the northern reaches of the Skeleton Coast.

1828 a US Captain by the name of Benjamin Morrell stopped at Angra Pequena and traded with local Namas and Damaras. He noted high concentrations of guano along the Namibian coast, but nothing resulted. In 1838, he wrote a book on his journey.

Benjamin Morrell’s book came to the attention of a Liverpool businessman, Andrew Livingstone. He chartered three small ships. Two failed, but Captain Farr in a brig named Ann arrived at Ichaboe and returned carrying a fair profit in the form of ‘white gold’. In spite of Livingstone’s attempt to buy the crew’s silence, the secret leaked out, and the islands thronged with ships.

In an effort to ensure the profitability of the resource, and to bring order to the armada of as many as 450 ships, the British took possession of the islands. By 1845, the guano deposits were depleted and Britain lost interest once more.

But Walvis Bay was known as a good place to stop, avoid the storms and replenish supplies.

Between 1861 and 1874, the British Crown declared possession of the offshore islands with a number of legal instruments.

Around this time, the British sought to expand their influence in the territory. Their representative, William Coates Palgrave was sent to establish a protectorate. At the same time, local peoples were anxious of encroachment on their lands by the Boers. Palgrave initiated negotiations between the tribes, and in September 1876. at Okahandja, a number of chiefs became a signatories to a letter requesting protectorate status. These included Zeraua and Maherero of the Hereros, the Ovambanderu Chief, Salomo Aponda from Otjikango and Wilhelm Maharero, oldest son of Maharero. The letter was witnessed by missionaries Peter Heinrich Brincker, Carl Ludwig Hermann Hegner and Botolf Bernhard Björklund, and traders Heinrich Kleinschmidt, Robert Lewis and JJ Christie.

The Cape Parliament went on to declare areas of Nama and Ovaherero as protectorates, but baulked at annexation, as they only had a police force at their disposal, as the traders complained about taxes and as another war broke out between the Namas and the Hereros in 1880. They did however get a foothold by annexing Walvis Bay on 12 March 1878, creating an enclave.

In 1886 following rapid expansion by the German Empire, the entire coast from the Orange River to the Kunene River, with the exception of the British Off-Shore islands and Walvis Bay, came under German control. Walvis Bay was truly an isolated ‘enclave’.

In 1914, World War 1 broke out, and the troops of the Union of South Africa invaded, sweeping aside German resistance. Walvis Bay was effectively part of British territory once more.

In 1922, the territory was transferred to the Administration for South West Africa. However in 1977, when it became clear that Namibia was on a course for independence, South Africa reversed the decision that made Walvis Bay an integral part of the country, in opposition to the United Nations.

When Namibia gained independence in 1991, Walvis Bay remained under South African control. It was reintegrated on 1 March 1994, and Namibia was once again whole.

Walvis Bay Lagoon is a wetland of international importance. Alongside a huge number of resident species, it is also a very important site for birds migrating to and from the Palaearctic regions (Europe. North Africa and Asia), as well as up and down Africa. It is designated a wetland of international importance in terms of the Ramsar treaty, and by Birdlife International.

The open desert landscape and predators such as Black-backed Jackals and Kelp Gulls limit nesting spots on the ground, so the wetland is particularly important for migrants. The most commonly seen birds are pelicans, and vast numbers of Greater and Lesser flamingos. Other important species include Chestnut-banded Plover, Black-necked Grebe and the African Black Oystercatcher.

The wetlands regularly support a minimum of 20,000 birds, hold 70,000 to 100,000 birds during winter months and up to 250,000 during spring and summer months.

The wetlands regularly support 1% of the world population of 19 species and subspecies of waterfowl. The most important of these are:

Chestnut-banded Plover - 65-70% of world population
Black-necked Grebe - 40% of African sub-species
Greater Flamingo - 65% of Southern African population
Lesser Flamingo - 80% of southern African population
African Black Oystercatcher - Important nursery area for 50% of 1 to 3 year old juveniles

The Walvis Bay wetlands consist of four parts: the lagoon, the mudflats, the shoreline and the salt works.

The lagoon
The lagoon is a sheltered inlet from the bay. It is approximately 7 km long and 300 m wide at the mouth. The mouth and northern section are where Greater Flamingos feed, attracted by large numbers of invertebrates. The southern section is where Lesser Flamingos, are found, attracted by algae.

Mud flats
The intertidal mudflats lie between the mouth of the lagoon and the Salt Works pump station. Birds such as Plovers, Little Stints feed here, mainly on fly larva. Along the shoreline of the mudflats Sanderlings, Ruddy Turnstones and Greater Flamingos can be found.

Shore line
The western shore, ending at Pelican Point, is sandy and about 6 to 7 km long, with an intertidal area of about 800 m wide. Birds found here include Greater Flamingos, Ruddy Turnstones and Sanderlings. Short billed plovers, Curlew Sandpipers, Eurasian Curlew and African Black Oystercatchers can be found in this vicinity.

Salt works
Construction of the saltpans began in 1963. The total area is approximately 4,400 ha. The main feeders here are the intra-African and resident birds such as Lesser Flamingos, Cape Teal, Black-winged Stilts, Black-necked Grebes, Avocets African Black Oystercatcher and the White-fronted and Chestnut-banded Plovers which breed here throughout the year.

Of further interest
The area between Sandwich Harbour and Walvis Bay holds 90-95% of the world population of Chestnut-banded Plover.

Adapted from material provided by the Coastal Environment Trust of Namibia

The following list of waders and sea birds will be of interest to birdwatchers.

African Black Oystercatcher - Haematopus moquini
Bar-tailed Godwit - Limosa lapponica
Black Tern - Chlidonias niger
Black-necked Grebe - Podiceps nigricollis
Blacksmith Lapwing - Vanellus armatus
Black-tailed Godwit - Limosa limosa
Black-winged Stilt - Himantopus himantopus
Cape Cormorant - Phalacrocorax capensis
Cape Teal - Anas capensis
Caspian Tern - Sterna caspia
Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis
Chestnut-banded Plover - Charadrius pallidus
Common Greenshank - Tringa nebularia
Common Tern - Sterna hirundo
Curlew Sandpiper - Calidris ferruginea
Damara Tern - Sterna balaenarum
Egyptian Goose - Alopochen aegyptiacus
Eurasian Curlew - Numenius arquata
Eurasian Oystercatcher - Haematopus ostralegus
Great Crested Grebe - Podiceps cristatus
Great White Pelican - Pelecanus onocrotalus
Greater Flamingo - Phoenicopterus ruber roseus
Grey Heron - Ardea cinerea
Grey Plover - Pluvialis squatarola
Grey-headed Gull - Larus cirrocephalus
Hartlaub’s Gull - Larus hartlaubii
Kelp Gull - Larus dominicanus
Kittlitz’s Plover - Charadrius pecuarius
Lesser Flamingo - Phoenicopterus minor
Little Egret - Egretta garzetta
Little Grebe - Tachybaptus ruficollis
Little Stint - Calidris minuta
Marsh Sandpiper - Tringa stagnatilis
Pied Avocet - Recurvirostra avosetta
Red Knot - Calidris canutus
Red-necked - Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus
Ringed Plover - Charadrius hiaticula
Ruddy Turnstone - Arenaria interpres
Ruff - Philomachus pugnax
Sanderling - Calidris alba
Sandwich Tern - Sterna sandvicensis
Swift Tern - Sterna bergii
Terek Sandpiper - Tringa cinerea
Three-banded Plover - Charadrius tricollaris
Whimbrel - Numenius phaeopus
White-breasted Cormorant - Phalacrocorax carbo
White-fronted Plover - Charadrius marginatus
White-winged Black Tern - Chlidonias leucopterus

Uncommon sightings

Black Heron - Egretta ardesiaca
Black-headed - Gull Larus ridibundus
Broad-billed - Sandpiper Limicola falcinellus
Cape Shoveler - Anas smithii
Caspian Plover - Charadrius asiaticus
Common Redshank - Tringa totanus
Common Sandpiper - Tringa hypoleucos
Crowned Cormorant - Phalacrocorax coronatus
Franklin’s Gull - Larus pipixcan
Grey Phalarope - Phalaropus fulicarius
Gull-billed Tern - Gelochelidon nilotica
Large Sandplover - Charadrius leschenaultii
Osprey - Pandion haliaetus
Wattled Plover - Vanellus senegallus

List provided by Mola Mola
List compiled by K. Wearne & L.G. Underhill

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