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| Tsumkwe |
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Introduction & planning tips Tsumkwe is one of the smallest and most isolated villages in Namibia, but one of the most interesting. It is one of the few places where travellers can meet the San bushmen of the Kalahari. It also gives access to some extremely wild areas which travellers are unlikely to experience in the rest of Namibia, such as the Khaudum Game Park and the Nyae Nyae Conservancy. It may be difficult to schedule as it either needs a long drive in and out along the same route, or the travellers will have to drive through the Khaudum Game Park which is very challenging, even for very experienced offroad drivers. However the rewards of a visit to the area are great.
Consultants' map ![]() Consultants' folder Click on the title to show or hide the information. Two nights are recommended to allow the traveller to spend time visiting the Bushmen, and to explore Khaudum Game Park and the Nyae Nyae Conservancy.
Tsumkwe is not much more than a crossroads with one main road running through it, and difficult sand roads leading off north and south. * Petrol station (open 07:00 to 18:00, 7 days a week) * General Dealer, with a very basic range of products only * G!hunku Crafts Market * NO banking facilities Itinerary If driving from Grootfontein to Tsumkwe and returning to Grootfontein, a small 2x4 sedan vehicle will do. Travellers should however be advised to make sure they have enough cash and supplies before leaving for Tsumkwe. Driving through the Khaudum Game Park If the traveller continues from Tsumkwe through the Khaudum Game Park a minimum of two 4x4 vehicles are required. There are NO places in the park to buy food or fuel, and water and firewood may not be available. Travellers should be entirely self sufficient with provisions for at least three days. It is advisable to bring plenty of water for drinking and washing. Firewood should be available at the camps, but is not guaranteed, and travellers are not allowed to collect firewood inside the park. For more details on travelling through the Khaudum Game Park click here >> The Bushmen Although the Bushmen are generally hospitable, it is advisable to visit the Bushmen on an organised activity with an activity operator or lodge who understands and respects their customs and heritage, due to cultural differences and language differences. The following should be remembered at all times: * Ask permission before entering a village. * Ask permission before taking photos. * Remember at all times that you are a visitor and that cultures differ. Clothing Travellers should be prepared for cold and high heat. In winter (May to September) the nights may be cold but midday may be warm to hot. In summer the temperature may rise to over 35 C. Tsumkwe is a small village, but the surrounding area is rich in attractions: * Visit to Bushmen Villages * Numerous baobab trees * Bird watching * Khaudum Game Park * Nyae Nyae Conservancy The G!hunku Crafts Market (meaning barter in theJu!’hoansi and !Kung languages), is situated next to the Nyae NyaeConservancy office in Tsumkwe. Items for sale include jewellery made from ostrich eggs, hunting bowsand arrows as well as collecting bags made from animal hide. There is also a cultural exhibit with boards providing information on the history and culture of the San living in the two neighbouring communities. Bushmen, also referred to as the Khoisan or San, traditionally lived a life of hunter gatherers. Many travellers arrive expecting to see traditional San people, but are disappointed when they discover that they now wear western clothing, or items of western clothing in addition to traditional clothing. The Khoisan are remarkably adaptable, adopting elements of other cultures that are useful to them. As a result, it is very difficult to discern one single Khoisan culture. The cultures of the various groups and communities differ according to areas through which they have travelled and other cultures and practices to which they have been exposed. For instance, the Khoisan quickly adapted to wearing western clothes, but, when hunting, wear traditional clothes as jeans and T-shirts have the bad habit of getting stuck on thorns and picking up sticky seeds. The traditional way of life can be seen in cultural villages and on activities in the vicinity of Tsumkwe. These activities are run by the San in cooperation with lodges and development organisations, and provide income to the San. The dry grass and bush savannah surrounding Tsumkwe supports several large baobab trees. The most noteworthy are: * Dorslandboom (Thirstland Tree): In 1891 the Dorsland Trekkers camped here on their way to Angola and carved their names into the tree. Unfortunately vandals have found it necessary to add their names to the list. * Holboom (Hollow Tree): Holboom is believed to have been hit by lightening at some stage, which partially split the tree, creating a hollow in it. * Grootboom (Big Tree): This massive tree unfortunatley died in 2007 and nothing remains. Many visitors to the area find these trees an ideal camping spot. The following should be observed when camping near a baobab tree: * Get permission from the village on whos land the tree stands; * Do not camp or build a fire close to the tree. Not only can it cause damage to the tree, but also disturbs the animals and birds living in these trees; * Do not vandalise the trees, or carve names in them. The Nyae Nyae Conservency lies on the northern edge of the Kalahari basin and is a semi-desert area dominated by grass and bush savannah. To the south of Tsumkwe several phospate-rich pans are found, which transform into superb wetlands during the rainy season, attracting over 80 species of wetland birds. The most important birds found here include breeding slaty egret and great snipe, as well as the non-breeding wattled crane. Another rare bird found here is the black-tailed godwit. The pans also support some important populations of rare wetland and grassland birds such as rufous-bellied heron, red-winged pratincole, Montagu´s harrrier and pallid harrier. Sometimes the pans become a temporary home to thousands of greater and lesser flamingo (probably migrating between Etosha Pan and Makgadikgadi Pans in Botswana) as well as thousands of blackwinged stilt. More common species such as white pelican, little egret, glossy ibis, red-billed teal, African marsh harrier, painted snipe, lesser moorhen, curlew sandpiper, open-billed stork, marabou stork and wood sandpiper may be particularly numerous. Large mixed breeding colonies of black-necked grebe, whiskered tern, red-knobbed coot, purple gallinule and Baillon’s crakes are often found in the areas surrounding the flooded pans. The surrounding grasslands hold palearctic migrants such as blackwinged pratincole and caspian plover. Typical species found in the open woodland include kori bustard, blackbellied korhaan, double-banded courser and members of all of Southern Africa’s sandgrouse species, particularly the rare yellow-throated sandgrouse and Burchell’s sandgrouse. Species often seen in the acacia woodlands include Bradfield’s hornbill, red-billed francolin, red-crested korhaan, crimson-breasted shrike, Kalahari robin, long-tailed shrike, sharp-tailed glossy starling, Marico flycatcher, violet-eared waxbill and shaft-tailed whydah. Over 60 species of raptors have been recorded around the pan system. These include the white-backed and white-headed vulture, lappet-faced vulture, Dickinson´s kestrel, lesser kestrel, European marsh harrier and eagles such as the tawny, martial and bateleur. Although the Khaudum, north of Tsumkwe, is a small park with an area of just 3,841 square kilometers, it is a legend among offroad explorers and adventurers. There are wild places in Africa, however few are as truly wild as Khaudum. The area is as close to 'untouched' as a place can be due to the extremely difficult driving conditions and very low number of visitors. This is the great attraction of the park, and the reason why its wildlife is so interesting. The park is particularly memorable for its population of wild elephants. There are no San bushmen settlements in the park.
* Tsumkwe can be reached from Grootfontein in a small 2 X 4 sedan. * Travellers using a 2x4 will have to backtrack on the C44 and B8 to Grootfontein. * To enter the Khaudum or continue to Botswana a 4x4 vehicle is a MUST. Note: For details on travelling through the Khaudum see here >> * Grootfontein * Tsumeb * Etosha National Park Von Lindequist gate (long day drive) * Otavi * Khaudum Game Park * Botswana (Doba Border Post) Grootfontein Grootfontein to Tsumkwe is approx. 278 km * From Grootfontein drive north on the B8 to the C44 turn off (approx. 53 km) * Turn right into the C44 and follow it to Tsumkwe (approx. 225 km) The B8 is tar road. The rest of the route is on gravel road. Tsumeb Tsumeb to Tsumkwe is approx. 335 km * From Tsumeb drive south east on the C42 to Grootfontein (approx. 57 km) * From Grootfontein drive north on the B8 to the C44 turn off (approx. 53 km) * Turn right into the C44 and follow it to Tsumkwe (approx. 225 km) The C42 and B8 are tar roads. The rest of the route is on gravel road. Von Lindequist Gate (Etosha National Park) Von Lindequist Gate to Tsumkwe is approx. 434 km * Drive east on the C38 to the B1 turn off (approx. 25 km) * Turn right into the B1 and drive to Tsumeb (approx. 74 km) * From Tsumeb drive south east on the C42 to Grootfontein (approx. 57 km) * From Grootfontein drive north on the B8 to the C44 turn off (approx. 53 km) * Turn right into the C44 and follow it to Tsumkwe (approx. 225 km) The C38, B1, C42 and B8 are tar roads. The rest of the route is on gravel road. Otavi Otavi to Tsumkwe is approx. 368 km * From Otavi drive east on the B8 to Grootfontein (approx. 90 km) * From Grootfontein drive north on the B8 to the C44 turn off (approx. 53 km) * Turn right into the C44 and follow it to Tsumkwe (approx. 225 km) The B8 is tar road. The rest of the route is on gravel road. Sigaretti Camp (Khaudum Game Park) Note: To drive into or through the Khaudum National Park a 4x4 is required. From Sigaretti Camp to Tsumkwe is approx 50 km * From Sigaretti Camp drive south on the D3303 and D3315 to Tsumkwe (approx. 50 km) The entire trip is on extremely bad sandy road. Dobe Border Post (Botswana) Note: The border is open from 07:00–15:00, Namibian time. Dobe Border Post to Tsumkwe is approx. 55 km * From the Dobe Border drive west on the C44 to Tsumkwe (approx. 55 km) The entire trip is on gravel road. Tsumkwe Airstrip (FYTK) South: 19 degrees 35’ 13” East: 30 degrees 27’ 30" Elevation: 3,700 feet Cautions/Warning: Beware of animals on the runway. Tsumkwe Airstrip Runway Data
Information provided by Red Sky Ventures Tsumkwe Country Lodge 25 rooms & 5 campsites, located within Tsumkwe in the Nyae Nyae Conservancy. Guided cultural visits to Ju/'hoansi Village, guided excursions into the Khaudum Game Park and in the Nyae Nyae Conservency as well as guided walking trails. Nhoma Safari Camp Approx. 40 km west of Tsumkwe 10 spacious Meru tents. Sensitive and authentic interaction with Ju/'hoansi (Bushmen). Activities centre around guided cultural experience at //nhoq’ma (Nhoma) village. Also offers excursions into the Khaudom National Park. Tsumkwe, in north-eastern Namibia is a tiny village surrounded by some of the wildest country in Africa. Here, travellers can see the San bushman as they make their transition to a modern way of life. Further afield, travellers can meet traditional San people and discover their traditional culture and their close connection to the bushveldt. In the area around the village, massive, ancient Baobabs show how incredibly large trees can grow. Khaudum National Park, north-east of Tsumkwe, is a park that is legendary not only for its challenging driving, but also for its wild elephants. And surrounding the village, the Nyae Nyae Conservancy provides a home to those San who choose to live in nature. Tsumkwe is far more than a small village. It is a gateway to adventure. It is not known how long Tsumkwe has been inhabited, however the place was known to the local San bushmen, and given the name Tsumkwe, In 1959, the first South African Commissioner for the area set up base under a huge baobab tree close to a semi-permanent spring and with this Tsumkwe was formally established. In 1961 the first missionary, Ferdi Weich, of the NG Church arrived in Tsumkwe, and began converting the local population to Christianity. In 1970 the South African government implemented the Odendaal Plan, which called for the development of 10 homeland territories. Bushmanland was one of these 'homelands' and was set aside for the Bushmen people. Unlike the other "homelands" Bushmanland never became self-governing. Instead South Africa made Tsumkwe the administrative centre for San affairs. A store, clinic, school, church and jail as well as several cement buildings were constructed. In 1993, The first accommodation establishment, Tsumkwe Lodge, was build. In 1998 the Nyae Nyae Conservancy was established for the sustainable use and management of fauna and flora, to benefit community members. Although the conservancy surrounds Tsumkwe, Tsumkwe itself is not part of the conservancy. The Nyae Nyae Conservency head office is located in Tsumkwe. The San have a rich collection of every-day items that lend themselves to be sold as crafts. All items are mainly handmade from natural materials found in their surroundings. The traditional San way of life meant that they had few possessions but those that they had were beautifully worked. The techniques of making these items has changed little, and today income from selling such items as crafts is extremely important to the various San communities. Jewellery The San have a long history of making jewellery from ostrich eggshells. The manufacture of jewellery is almost exclusively the work of women. To add colour and variation to the jewellery some eggshells are roasted to turn them brown or black, and beads made from small slices of porcupine quills and various plant seeds are often incorporated. Note: In order to protect the ostrich population and ensure a sustainable resource, domestic ostrich farmers in Namibia make ostrich eggs available to the G!hunku Crafts Market. Collecting / gathering bags Whilst gathering food, women carry a soft, smooth leather bag to store the collected food. The bags are often decorated with fringes of ostrich eggshell, glass beads, slices of porcupine quills and various seeds. Perfume Powder Bag The San women not only know many different species of aromatic herbs, but are also skilled at creating their own individual perfume powder. Originally, the powder bags were made from tortoise shell, decorated with ostrich eggshell beads, seeds, grasses and roots. A piece of fur was applied to the shell openings for applying the powder. Wildlife authorities have discouraged the use of tortoise shell, and today most bags are made from horn. Hunting Bag When hunting the San men carry a hunting bag, made of smooth animal skin. The bag usually contains items such as a quiver for holding arrows, a hunting bow, a spear, a digging stick and a set of sticks to make fire. The bow and spear shafts are made from branches of the raisin bush and animal sinew is used to assemble the bow, the arrows and the quiver. In winter (May to
September) the nights may be cold but midday may be warm to hot. In
summer the temperature may rise to over 35 C. Rains fall from October to March. During the rains, the roads become extremely muddy and driving off the main roads is very challenging.
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