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Omaruru

Tuesday, 16 October 2007

Introduction & planning tips

Omaruru is a small town with a very rich history. From early origins as a Herero settlement it grew to become the largest European settlement before the establishment of Windhoek. It is ideal on routes between Swakopmund, Twyfelfontein, Brandberg and Etosha, and Windhoek. It is also useful if the itinerary from Sesriem and Sossusvlei bypasses Swakopmund.

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Planning information

Omaruru is a waypoint en-route to Damaraland, Kaokoland, Etosha and the coast. The stay can be an hour or two to refuel and allow the traveller to visit the craft market and the Franke Tower, however the visit can be extended to visit the vineyard and other attractions.

There are a number of lodges, guest farms and bed & breakfasts in and around Omaruru. Although small, Omaruru is a full-fledged, developed town with modern facilities, all the basic types of shops and banking services.

Itinerary
Omaruru is an excellent stop before the Brandberg and en-route to and from Twyfelfontein. It can also be incorporated as part of an alternative route from Swakopmund to Etosha in place of the drive up the coast.

Erongo
If travellers are visiting the central Erongo wilderness area, a pair of good hiking shoes will be required as the terrain is rocky and travellers will have to walk up relatively steep slopes.

Wildlife and birdwatching
The Erongo wilderness area is an excellent destination for birdwatching, but has no large game. If the object is to see large game, try to travel downwards from Etosha before visiting the area.

Clothing
Travellers should be prepared for cold and high heat. In winter (May to September) the nights may be cold but midday may be warm to hot. In summer the temperature may rise to over 35 C.

Preparation for driving
Travellers should be advised to leave with a full tank and plenty of water. Read the guidelines for driving in the desert, here>>

Cool box
Use the opportunity to restock the coolbox if necessary.

Clothing
Pack long trousers, long socks and sturdy walking shoes if walks are planned in the Erongo wilderness area.

Photographic supplies
Ensure that enough flash memory cards or film stock is on hand. Lenses should ideally be UV coated. A zoom lens and macro lens will be handy.

* The Franke Tower
* The 1904 Battlefield
* The Rhenish Mission House
* Herero Chief Zeraua's grave
* The craft centre
* The vineyard
* The carving factory
* The Erongo wilderness area
* Paula Cave

There are four monuments in and around Omaruru. These are the Franke Tower and 1904 battlefield, the old Rhenish Mission House and rock art site, Paula Cave, on the edge of the Erongo wilderness area.

Zeraua was a senior Herero chief in the mid 19th century. He armed the Hereros against the Nama tribes, and cultivated good relationships with European traders and settlers. He was the first senior Herero figure to be buried in a coffin. As a result, the Ovaherero refer to the year 1876 as ‘ojotjikesa’, the ‘year of the coffin’.

A small but popular craft market is located in Omaruru. Coffee and snacks are available.

The only Namibian winery is located on the banks of the Omaruru river. The vintner has a small tavern where wine tasting is offered and light meals are served. Brandy and schnapps are also produced.

A carving factory is located in Omaruru. Carvings of all sizes are made from weathered roots of trees. These carvings are on sale in many places in Namibia.

The mountainous Erongo wilderness area lies mainly within a conservancy. Although there are few large game species in the area, the wilderness is noted for its beauty, tranquillity and excellent birdwatching and rock art. This area is suitable for a post-tour extension, however Etosha should be scheduled first.

The Erongo wilderness area contains a number of samples of rock art. The most notable of these is Paula Cave, an overhang which was the site of an ancient settlement.

Monuments

Travel details

Marketing descriptions

Background for clients & guides

The name Omaruru is comes from the Herero, ‘omaere omaruru’ which means ‘bitter curds’. The word ‘omaere’ means ‘curds’. Omaere is a traditional Namibian drink. The bitterness comes from the taste of the milk, after cattle have eaten a bush that grows in the vicinity of Omaruru.

Summer days can be very hot, reaching up to 40 degrees Celsius. Winter days are mostly warm, but the nights can be extremely cold.

In late 1903, the first Bondelswarts rebellion broke out in the far south of the territory. At the time, Captain Franke, a senior officer in the German forces, was stationed in Omaruru. He commanded the 2nd Schutztruppe Company. At the time, this was the largest company in the territory, at the time. On hearing of the uprising, Franke and his men immediately set off to the south.

In early 1904 the Hereros, who were increasingly dissatisfied with circumstances under colonial rule, also rose up. Omaruru was attacked. However the staff surgeon who had remained in the town, Dr Philaletes Kuhn, the missionary Dannert, and the remaining Omaruru garrison launched a number of counter attacks. In spite of their efforts, by the middle January 1904, the town was besieged.

At that point, a heliograph message was sent. On finding out that the town, the largest colonial settlement at the time, was under siege, Franke turned his force of seven officers, 127 soldiers, two doctors and two cannons around.

They arrived at Omaruru on 4 February after a march of approximately 900 km in 19 days. After a battle of 6 hours, the town was relieved and the besieging Hereros were defeated. Franke led his forces on a white charger, wearing a white uniform.

Franke and his force were honoured with a tower, inaugurated in 1908.

Zeraua was born at Otjimbingwe. The exact date of his birth is unknown.

He rose to prominence as a chief of the Hereros in the 1850’s, and through his association with European traders, was instrumental in arming the Hereros, a fact that would play an important role in the wars between the Hereros and the Namas.

Although he was the senior of Samuel Maherero, he turned down supreme chieftancy of the Herero people, and Maharero became the Paramount Chief in 1863. In 1867, following a drought, he settled in Omaruru.

During that period, the British sought to expand their influence in the territory. Their representative, William Coates Palgrave was sent to establish a protectorate. At the same time, local peoples were anxious of encroachment on their lands by the Boers. Palgrave initiated negotiations between the tribes, and in September 1876. at Okahandja, Zeruau became a signatory to a letter requesting protectorate status, alongside Maherero, the Ovambanderu Chief, Salomo Aponda from Otjikango and Wilhelm Maharero, oldest son of Maharero. The letter was witnessed by missionaries Peter Heinrich Brincker, Carl Ludwig Hermann Hegner and Botolf Bernhard Björklund, and traders Heinrich Kleinschmidt, Robert Lewis and JJ Christie.

The Cape Parliament went on to declare areas of Nama and Ovaherero as protectorates, but baulked at annexation, as they only had a police force at their disposal, as the traders complained about taxes and as another war broke out between the Namas and the Hereros in 1880. They did however get a foothold by annexing Walvis Bay.

Zeraua was aging. Although he had consistently refused to be converted to Christianity, he requested Rhenish Missionary Viehe to baptise him with the names Christian Wilhelm.

He died at Omaruru in November 1876. He was the first chief to be buried in a coffin, which is why the Ovaherero refer to the year 1876 as ‘ojotjikesa’, the ‘year of the coffin’.

The Hereros of Omaruru remember Zeraua by marching to his grave every year on the last weekend before 10 October.

Friedrich Wilhelm Gottlieb Viehe was born in March 1839 at Mennighöffen, Westphalia in Germany.

He joined the Rheinische Missionsgesellschaft, the Rhenish Mission Society, and came to the country in 1867. At first, he worked among the Ovaherero at Otjimbingwe but in 1870 he moved to Omaruru, where he established a school for the children of European settlers. From 1872, he was supported by Finnish missionary Antti Piirainen, who set up a store. In the same year, he built the "Old Mission House" in Omaruru. It was in this house in that he translated the New Testament into the Otjiherero language. He also erected the first meteorological station in the country, in 1885. The house would also go on to serve as the post, office under missionary Eduard Dannert, from 1895 to 1898.

Viehe left Omaruru in 1887.

In 1890 he moved to Okahandja where he headed the college, Augustineum. In 1896, he clashed with Theodor Leutwein over mistreatment of the local tribes. In 1899, he went on to upbraid Ovaherero Chief Samuel Maharero for ‘selling’ the Okakango, north of Okahandja, to settle his debts. At the end of 1900 he predicted that ‘local politics is heading towards getting all better land into the hands of Whites’.

He died in Okahandja on 15 January 1901.

In late 1903, the first Bondelswarts rebellion broke out in the far south of the territory. At the time, Captain Franke, a senior officer in the German forces, was stationed in Omaruru. He commanded the 2nd Schutztruppe Company. At the time, this was the largest company in the territory, at the time. On hearing of the uprising, Franke and his men immediately set of to the south.

In early 1904 the Hereros, who were increasingly dissatisfied with circumstances under colonial rule, also rose up. Omaruru was attacked. However the staff surgeon who had remained in the town, Dr Philaletes Kuhn, the missionary Dannert, and the remaining Omaruru garrison launched a number of counter attacks. In spite of their efforts, by the middle January 1904, the town was besieged.

At that point, a heliograph message was sent. On finding out that the town, the largest colonial settlement at the time, was under siege, Franke turned his force of seven officers, 127 soldiers, two doctors and two cannons around.

They arrived at Omaruru on 4 February after a march of approximately 900 km in 19 days. After a battle of 6 hours, the town was relieved and the besieging Hereros were defeated. Franke led his forces on a white charger, wearing a white uniform.

Franke and his force were honoured with a tower, inaugurated in 1908.

Erich Victor Carl August Franke was born on 21 July 1865 at Zuckmantel in Silesia, then part of German but now part of Poland. After completing his schooling, he joined the German army. He was posted to Namibia in June 1896.

He progressed through the ranks and in 1899 became a ‘Bezirksamtmann’, a district officer with the rank of captain. He held this rank until 1910.

In late 1903, the first Bondelswarts uprising broke out. Franke headed south with troops to quell the uprising.

The Hereros were dissatisfied by loss of land to traders and colonial expansion. Spurred on by the Bondelswarts uprising, and using the opportunity given to them by the departure of German troops to Warmbad in the South of the country, they rebelled in 1904.

Omaruru was besieged in January 1904. However, the District Officer, Captain Franke who was away in the South began a forced march to Omaruru, covering 900 km in 20 days. He broke the siege with a cavalry charge on 4 February 1904.

At the beginning of World War One, he led a counter-attack on Portuguese forces at Nautila in Angola. He took over the command of the Schutztruppe after the death of von Heydebreck in December 1914 and signed the capitulation treaty (Khorab treaty) in 1915.

In 1919 he left Namibia, retiring from the German army with the rank of Major-General in 1920. He died in September.1936 at Hamburg in Germany.

Last Updated ( Tuesday, 16 December 2008 )

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